Anybody Try 110V Charging Yet?

Anybody Try 110V Charging Yet?

I've been charging my MS60 with my 240V/40A outlet during the past month. But today, I wanted to experiment by using the 110V adapter and standard 110V outlet. Everything seemed to work OK. As predicted, it was charging very slowly, and the max amperage setting was just 12A. But after about 5 hours of charging, I checked up on it. And I found out that it just stopped charging. Not only that, but when my remote unlocked the car, nothing would turn on inside! The charge port was at its blue setting, and I could not release the charger. YIKES!!!! I figured there was something about the current running from the 110V outlet the Tesla didn't like. I unplugged from the 110V outlet, and after about a minute the MS60 reset itself and everything was back to normal. I immediately went back to the 240V. I wanted to test it in case I was running low on charge while over at a friend's house. I could use their 110V outlet. But from my experience tonight, I will never do that again! Has anybody tried it?

SCCRENDO | 9 april 2014

Duplicate post. Delete it

NO2PTRL | 10 april 2014

I picked up my MS a week ago and since I am moving this month, and don't want to install the 240 in this house, I have only been charging with 110. It IS very slow, 4 miles an hour, but every night I get 70 miles, so it works.

One of the managers at the Topanga store told me that if you can charge at a low enough amperage that the cooler for the battery won't go on and you can get more of a charge.

The other night I was able to charge my P85 to 303 miles. I have had no problem with the 110, but so look forward to installing the 240.

I am tired of drip drip drip.

Brian H | 10 april 2014

Edit by the logo allows you to move this duplicate to "none selected".

DaphneGreen | 10 april 2014

I've never gotten around to install a 240V. I've been using a 110V outlet for seven months without any problems.

Btrflyl8e | 10 april 2014

I drove my 60kWh MS from Tampa to Miami last year, and used a 110 at my hotel over my 3 day stay to get enough charge to get me back to the super charger in Ft Myers. Every day around noon it would stop charging, and not begin again until late evening. The culprit was temperature. It was august in S Florida, so not enough juice to cool the battery AND charge. Luckily, at night it would charge uninterrupted at 4mph, so it was enough.

plusplusjames | 10 april 2014

I have noticed that if you turn on the heat while charging at 110, it will reduce your charged range by a mile or two. There is.not enough juice apparently at 110 to run the HVAC.

Rocky_H | 10 april 2014

Yeah, this is really odd that this was posted twice by two different accounts with identical text in the body of it, and just a single word different in the title. (try versus tried). I think someone has a weird motive for posting this as to why two different accounts would post the same "scary" sounding item about charging stopping and the car needing to reset itself, sounding like 110V just can't be used.

Thomas N. | 10 april 2014

I doubt it. Doesn't seem like too much of a sensationalized post to me and 110v charging is of very little interest to most of us.

He probably posted it, didn't see it show up, hopped onto a different email account to see if that could be the problem, posted it again only to see the original had worked and hasn't had time to delete one of them yet.

Captain_Zap | 10 april 2014

Here is a good charging primer:

A blue ring means that the car is communicating but not charging. It is trying to decide whether the outlet is up to the job and the outlet what it is capable of.

The car can get fussy with certain 110v outlets, I had trouble with some GFI outlets. I am not sure if the problem was with the outlet, the installation of the outlet or whether it was because there was other things on the circuit. It was at someone else's house so I didn't know the background on the outlet.

jordanrichard | 10 april 2014

I was told that the blue ring also indicates that the battery is being warmed up to be able to be charged. This would be especially important when plugging into a SC that is pushing some serious volts/amperege.

MitchP85D | 10 april 2014

I am the original poster of this topic. Why the other person, hafiz.tahmid duplicated my post, I have no clue! But anyway, thanks everybody for your feedback. It just might be the GFI outlet. And for anybody who does not have a 240V outlet, I highly recommend that you get one installed!

stevenmaifert | 10 april 2014

Used it for three days on a recent out of town trip. 3 mph charging is mighty slow, but it worked just fine.

Thomas N. | 10 april 2014

Post copying and reposting? Well that's a new one here at Tesla Forums!

It's both easy to do and annoying as hell. I'm surprised I didn't think of it yet.

NKYTA | 10 april 2014

@Thomas, so am I. ;-p

Rocky_H | 10 april 2014

Thanks, rmitchell--my apologies for the suspicion of you then as the actual poster.

That is a weird trick, and it seems to be the inverse side of trolling: (1)find someone's normal post, (2)Copy/Paste to pretend it's yours to make your account seem respectable, (3)Use that account for nefarious purposes later.

carolinagobo | 10 april 2014

Charging 95% of the time in my condo to 120V 12amp outlet, 4 miles per hour for 5 months, 4000 miles not problems at all. MS 85

shop | 10 april 2014

Yes, GFI outlets can and do go bad all the time. That's what I would suspect.

Brian H | 10 april 2014

Them trolls is sneaky, like.

bevguy | 10 april 2014

I use 110 -120 volt all the time at a vacation cabin. It is slow but otherwise Ok. 24 hours gets you 75 miles or so, enough to get to a faster charger if needed.. I use a short extension cord, but if you do make sure the wire is thicker than the standard extension cord sold at most stores. (the smaller the gauge number the thicker the wire) . The Tesla will not accept a charge if the voltage is much lower than what it expects,. And I charge at 10 amps instead of the standard 12 amps to be more sure about the safety of household wiring.

PBEndo | 10 april 2014

I spent 2.5 days on 110v in the parking garage at the Portofino Hotel in Orlando. It was slow, but it gave me a full charge to get back home with no anxiety. Since the car was parked for tat time anyway, it was quite convenient. | 10 april 2014

I've read that 120V charging is not only slow but inefficient, meaning that compared to 240V charging a much lower percentage of the power consumed is converted to miles. True?

Thomas N. | 10 april 2014

I think that's basically true. I think I saw somewhere a long time ago that 32A was the most efficient. I'm pretty sure that 12A would be very inefficient.

jdonohue | 10 april 2014

Charging Rates:
Nominal 120 (117 v) @ 12 amps ~ 1.4 Kwh per hour
Nominal 240 volts @ 40 amps ~ 9.6 Kwh per hour

The 240 mode puts about 6.8 times more juice into the system per hour. There is probably a slight difference in conversion efficiency due to heat. Slow rate some power may be used to heat battery; at the high rate to cool the battery.

MitchP85D | 11 april 2014

Well, I just had to try it again. But this time, I used a different 110V outlet in my garage. And the result was no drama. It worked just fine. Maybe it is a hit and miss thing with 110V outlets. Anyway, for now on I will only use the 110V one that worked as a back-up in case something goes wrong with my 240V.

Brian H | 13 april 2014

Charging the MS on 110V is like moving it with a lawnmower motor. It works, but barely.

ye | 13 april 2014

kilowatt-hour per hour = kilowatt

shop | 13 april 2014

The car itself uses a certain amount of energy powering itself when charging, so not all the power coming into the car when charging goes into the battery. It is most noticeable when charging with 120v, 12A. Even bumping up to 16A (via the NEMA 5-20 adapter) gives you a big boost in efficiency.

wcalvin | 13 april 2014

Most of the garage 120v outlets that I have tested have a lot of source resistance so that drawing 12A drops the voltage at the charger below 105V, the bottom of its operating range. It shuts off and requires a manual restart (not RC) by unplugging.

So drop the current limit from 12 down to the 5A minimum and try again. Note the voltage at the beginning (when 0A is being drawn) with what it is a minute later at 5A. That's the voltage drop.

You can then up the current until the voltage gets down around 108V.

Don't start at the 12A top and then tab down, or you will be unplugging and resetting with each increment.

They ought to be doing this in firmware.

ir | 13 april 2014


The cutoff is a safety feature. You are plugging into a borderline outlet. The right thing to do is not use it.

By incorporating an automatic feature to use such outlets, Tesla is welcoming more fires and bad press. By making you figure it out, it means you had to really try to set fire to the garage. So it would be clearly your fault.