Model 3

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My New Model 3 SR+ Only Has 220 Mile Range

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  • edited February 2020
    "The service center assures me that we both have a SR+."

    Only your car sticker which states the Rated Range is valid. What does the car sticker say? If it's 240 miles and at 100% charge you car has only shown 220 miles and the Rated Wh/mi range in Energy/Consumption graph (it's a light gray line labeled Rated on the graph) matches the 220 mile range then Tesla sold you a 220 Rated car as a 240 Rated car.

    Since Tesla will likely refuse to take the car into service to even look at the problem, you either live with it or go legal on them.

    But start with the sticker to see what car you actually purchased.
  • edited February 2020
    The bad news is the car actually has only about 180 miles of range. If you are within the return window you should return and get an LR. I wish every day I had done this. The size of the battery is everything. You can upgrade the other stuff later like autopilot. Autopilot isn't worth getting now anyway.
  • edited February 2020
    Contacted support that they said:

    In general, your car's displayed range is an estimate generated that will adjust throughout the life of your vehicle based on your driving habits and how the onboard systems are used. This can also be affected by outside factors such as temperature and weather. This estimate will be on the conservative side to help you not run out of range.

    I told them my cars (purchase may-2019) has only 4K miles on it and it decreated 10%. Tesla claim was that the degration is 2 to 5 percent the first year and then 1 to 2 percent each year after. The reply for this comment is:

    That's usually around the time the range drops. It's around a 5-9% drop of the estimated range. I am sorry that this isn't the answer you're looking for.

    I told them that is BS to see a 9% drop! Why is so many of us seeing the same issue? I think something fishy is going on that Tesla in now telling us. There is a class law suit going on for Model S and X user becuase their range were reduced (some as much as 30 miles). They did not inform the owners. They started to reduce the range on the S and X due to fire incidents reported on the news. Looks like they it it for Model 3 as well and its not on the SR+, it seem on be general and applies to MR and LR as well. Started to lost faith in the Company!
  • edited February 2020
    riderblue,

    The battery meter range is just an estimate and does not tell you degradation. If you want to know your usable battery capacity then you need to measure the energy expended until depletion (or as close as you can comfortably get). The process has been outlined earlier in this thread and in many other threads. Until you do that, it is premature to claim anything shady by Tesla
  • edited February 2020
    Stingray, can you please post the detail steps here for me and others to try. Thank you!
  • edited February 2020
    FISHEV, my window sticker say 220 but the configuration say SR+ configuration. I had 216 at 90% (which means 240 at 100%) when I first got the car and it was charging at the correct rate for a few months.
  • edited February 2020
    He did and his suggestion was Reading Prior Posts.
    Do try it out!
  • edited February 2020
    So I just check again: my window sticker paper say 220 miles when charged to full and in the Energy Application, the grey line that say "rated mile" is 220 as well. But I pay extra $4500 for a SR+. My "T" say I have a Standard Plus but yet the miles is Standard.
  • edited February 2020
    “the grey line that say "rated mile" is 220 as well.”

    No such line exists. The gray line is rated efficiency.
  • edited February 2020
    Charge the car to 100% (very important) and drive the car nearly to depletion. This must be a single trip without idle time and outside temps should be at least 70 degrees F. Multiply the miles driven by the wh/mi from the trip and divide the result by 1,000. This represents the kWh of energy used for the trip. You can then extrapolate the kWh hours with percentage of battery remaining to get the usable battery capacity. You can then compare your useable battery capacity to the size of the battery pack for your car and get a much more accurate estimate of battery degradation. Optionally, you can apply the rated wh/mi to the usable capacity to compare with the rated range of the car.

    Ideally you would drive the car to depletion and avoid extrapolation, but that probably isn’t realistic. However, the closer to 0% SOC the more accurate the result. Also note that, as we have seen from several YouTubers, there is energy in the pack below 0%, so your estimate will be conservative.

    With this method, you are measuring the energy in the battery. Batteries contain energy, not miles. You would expect to see some battery degradation, but it should be minimal. Think of the battery meter range as just a rough estimate and not an indicator of battery health.
  • noynoy
    edited February 2020
    Had my SR+ for 6 months today exactly, 6,162 miles on the clock - my max miles (100%) according to the app is 228 miles. Not too different from the pickup date although was of course expecting closer to the 250 mile mark
  • edited February 2020
    Lol that didn't take too long to hear talks about class action and kissing faith in Tesla. If your sticker says 220 that's what you get. With ota you might get bump or you might not.
  • edited February 2020
    “Charge the car to 100% (very important) and drive the car nearly to depletion. This must be a single trip without idle time and outside temps should be at least 70 degrees F. Multiply the miles driven by the wh/mi from the trip and divide the result by 1,000. This represents the kWh of energy used for the trip.”

    Don, the car tells you directly how much energy is used in a given drive. No need to use the efficiency number.
  • edited February 2020
    Losing* lol kissing
  • edited February 2020
    M-A-B-MCMLXXX,

    Yes, it is on the trip card. However, the level of precision is at 1 kWh. A little quick math and you can gain a more precise answer. However, using the kWh on the trip card would certainly work with that caveat.
  • edited February 2020
    I have same problem with my car, as Riderblue mentioned. They are giving all those excuses, even I told them if my car is StandardPlus range configure, then downgrade it to Standard, and give me my money back which I paid for "Plus" range. He first agreed and said he will check, but as I expected he came back and said this can not be done.
    I know why it can't be done, because the battery is only can do 220 and it can't go down or up!!!.
    For people who are getting 240-250 range, they should be happy, I am not sure why they are coming back and giving all that unnecessary information which is known to each tom, dick and harry; plus we are hearing that same feedback from service guys.
    I think we are trying to find next step how to get Tesla accept the problem and either resolve or compensate people having this issue.
  • edited February 2020
    singhalokk,

    Have actually measured your usable battery capacity, or are you just going by the battery meter? Assuming the latter, you are jumping to conclusions. Regardless of what the battery meter range estimate indicates, you could duplicate the rated efficiency in wh/mi and still see very close to the rated range on an actual trip. As has been stated over and over and over again, the battery meter estimate is not an indicator of battery health.
  • edited February 2020
    I too have what seems to be a low capacity SR+ battery pack. At full charge I see a range of 220 also.
    Additionally using the scan my tesla app it is reporting a Nominall Full Pack capacity of 49.2 kWh and as I understand it a SR+ should be 54 kQh.
    I have just over 5000 miles on the car and if what I see is indeed correct I either have a 9.1% degregation or a SR battery configuration or just a crappy Monday morning after a holiday weekend build battery.
    With all of that being said the range itself is good for 98% of my drives so it's not really an issue more of a curiosity.
    By the way my build is Aug. 2019.
  • edited February 2020
    “I have just over 5000 miles on the car and if what I see is indeed correct I either have a 9.1% degregation or a SR battery configuration or just a crappy Monday morning after a holiday weekend build battery.”
    _____________

    No, you are just drawing conclusions based on a rough estimate that is known to be imprecise at best.
  • edited February 2020
    “ Yes, it is on the trip card. However, the level of precision is at 1 kWh. A little quick math and you can gain a more precise answer.”

    Fair enough, given the assumption that the efficiency given isn’t derived from whole number energy consumption (which it very likely is not).
  • edited February 2020
    "No, you are just drawing conclusions based on a rough estimate that is known to be imprecise at best."

    Are you implying the scan my tesla reading of nominal full capacity of 49.2 kwh as imprecise or somewhat other?
  • edited February 2020
    "No, you are just drawing conclusions based on a rough estimate that is known to be imprecise at best."

    Are you implying the scan my tesla reading of nominal full capacity of 49.2 kwh as imprecise or somewhat other?
  • edited February 2020
    neows6,

    Yes. The app is not measuring energy discharged from 100% to at or near depletion. Therefore, it is just another estimate.

    If I look at a bucket of water, I can guess how much water is there. However, if you really want to know the amount of water, then you have to actually measure it.
  • edited February 2020
    People, especially relative newbies: It's really not a good idea to pay _any_ attention at all to FISH.

    Public Service Announcement:
    FISHEV is a known troll of several years standing and several user names who pushes an anti Tesla narrative. Please take his opinions with a grain of salt, avoid any advice he may suggest, and do not let him implant any Fear, Uncertainty, or Doubt about Tesla or your car into your own opinion.

    Yeah, it's gotten that bad. He/she/it (it's not clear exactly what kind of entity FISH is) will occasionally state something truthful. And then, N number of posts later, start stating stuff that's off into the weeds. And this modus operandi, on the same material even, is done over and over and over again.
    Rather than attempting to figure out if _this_ time the truth is being said, it's better to avoid the angst and just ignore the entity.
  • edited February 2020

    Are you implying the scan my tesla reading of nominal full capacity of 49.2 kwh as imprecise or somewhat other?”

    Yes. The car doesn’t measure battery capacity, and scan my tesla is calculating based on imprecise estimate.
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