Model S

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Unable to drive - Authentication required ?

edited November -1 in Model S
After getting car back from dealer, they upgraded SW to (2019.16.1.1).

After a short drive to test out new updates, we stop and my wife goes into store for something’s. She was driving, after she gets out I switch seats from passenger to drivers seat. All looks normal when I get into drivers seat, a few seconds later, I hear a alert and see the Unable to drive.

Tried pressing center button on keyfob, but car went into emergency flasher mode, side mirrors closed. Was waiting for some alarm to go off :-).

When I tried pressing on brake and selecting drive, it beeped an alert and a CAR OFF in instrument cluster.

So I called tech support and waited for a response, wife comes back, and I have lots of explaining to do :-). After 10 mins we call roadside assistance on other phone and within a few minutes we get an answer, click keyfob TWICE, that did it. Off we drove.

When we arrived home and tried to drive next time, same error when getting in car.

Now we have been having trouble after getting car back from SC with garage door re-programming, and a few other things. It would program, test of door operation was fine, then saved. Switched driver profile to check wife’s profile, and no garage link programmed, huh ? Wasn’t aware of this before ?

So I programmed her profile for garage door, tested and saved. So I changed profile back to me, and low and behold, garagelink needed programming again ? House icon wasn’t green as it was seconds ago, but grayed out. So I programmed both again, after 3 attempts it appeared to work for both profiles, hmmmm.

We leave house and upon returning to car, we get unable to drive alert again. Two quick presses on keyfob and we’re going again.

Upon returning home, garagelink is grayed out and requiring re programming, huh ?

So hard rebooted both screens and after the garage link needed programming again....

Drove it straight to Tesla to request they look at logs, service reps look up error, and state that’s normal op for SW 2019.17.11 with passive entry turned off. We have an earlier ver, and I asked for another service appointment. I get an appoint for next week, and Service requested I keep log and time stamp of errors.

Haven’t seen this alert before, how about you ?

Comments

  • edited June 2019
    Never heard of this before myself or on the forums. Definitely a new one! One WAG is the FOB not properly being identified. The FOB has low battery detection, so if you're not getting that warning, it could be the fob going bad or the fob receiver having a problem. Hope you'll come back after fixed and let us know what they found wrong.
  • edited November -1
    TeslaTap,

    See my post on keyfobs not selecting driver profile just posted.
  • edited November -1
    This maybe related to my keyfob profile being sent to keyfob three, as this is ONLY occurring with my keyfob profile active. Will change config and enable passive entry to see results.
  • edited June 2019
    Seems enabling “passive entry” has resolved this Auth error.

    Hadn’t had this option enabled before getting new 80bit fobs.

    Still have issue with keyfobs and driver profile not matching. Gonna try swapping keyfobs and re-link to see results.
  • edited June 2019
    MCU memory corruption?
  • edited July 2019
    RXlaw, thought the same, and asked SC about the mcu missing errors I observed when mobile tech did config for new keyfobs. Never really got any answer back on mcu.

    But I’ll add another comment to this, I stopped by my local Tesla SC and went to visit and update my keyfob/driver profile issue to them. But my Service adviser was out to lunch.

    So I jumped in a model 3 on showroom and started checking Browser response when using WiFi and cellular.. What a HUGE difference in operation of the browser on WiFi. So I killed WiFi and it switched over to LTE immediately.

    The LTE strength level in bars where 4 bars. What ? My LTE never shows over 1-2 bars. Browser performance on LTE was incredible.

    Nasdaq.com is probably the worst site I’ve fav’d in my Tesla. It will load eventually, but it’s like a 1200 baud connection.

    Thought improvement may have been a LTE cellular Access Point installed by Tesla in showroom. Checked ceiling tiles for one, and asked Tesla folks working there. No was their reply.

    So tried adding stocks on nasdaq site which requires keyboard input. This is not operational in my car, never works in the sense, when I try to click in the place to add stock tickers. The keyboard comes up after tapping the proper location, but typing characters in to add tsla never works. I go to press T and it never shows up in the box, anything I type here doesn’t work. However today all this worked on M3 and MS, lightning fast. Like having a gigabit network connection.

    That’s when I noticed on the MS100D’s I-Cluster the warning, “Unable to drive - Authentication required” error. It was running 2019.20.4.2 66625e9. I didn’t see same warning on M3...

    My keyfob/driver profile issue went away after I de-linked and switched fobs with wife, then relinked. Since then I haven’t had problem, but the wife does, but not as much as she doesn’t drive as much as I do.

    Even todays visit with both keyfobs in my same pocket did cause any issues with activating the wrong driver. Go figure
  • This post was very helpful and wanted to add on to it since this just happened to me today. I haven’t driven my 2021 Model S LR in about 7 days. During that time I had a software update to 2021.4.6. Noticed when I went to get into the car the handles didn’t auto present. Didn’t think much about it until I came out from my first stop and the same thing happened but this time I also go the “unable to drive - authentication required” note on the panel. I double clicked the fob and all was good but after that every time I went to get in the car it was the same sequence. Looked back through this forum as well as some others and I was pointed toward the passive entry setting. It was toggled off....I turned it back on and the handles appear to work and no authentication message. My hypothesis is the recent “minor bug update” caused a few minor bugs....I’m very certain I didn’t accidentally change the passive entry setting prior to the update.

    While I’m here....Is anyone getting a frequent reboot followed by the seat belt chime not going off? (After you’ve bucketed the seat belt). That seems to be a recurrent experience. I haven’t completely figured out how to get it to stop other than putting the car in park, physically getting out of the car and getting back in...although not sure if that is really doing anything other than making me look silly.
  • > @AIA304 said:
    > After getting car back from dealer, they upgraded SW to (2019.16.1.1).
    >
    > After a short drive to test out new updates, we stop and my wife goes into store for something’s. She was driving, after she gets out I switch seats from passenger to drivers seat. All looks normal when I get into drivers seat, a few seconds later, I hear a alert and see the Unable to drive.
    >
    > Tried pressing center button on keyfob, but car went into emergency flasher mode, side mirrors closed. Was waiting for some alarm to go off :-).
    >
    > When I tried pressing on brake and selecting drive, it beeped an alert and a CAR OFF in instrument cluster.
    >
    > So I called tech support and waited for a response, wife comes back, and I have lots of explaining to do :-). After 10 mins we call roadside assistance on other phone and within a few minutes we get an answer, click keyfob TWICE, that did it. Off we drove.
    >
    > When we arrived home and tried to drive next time, same error when getting in car.
    >
    > Now we have been having trouble after getting car back from SC with garage door re-programming, and a few other things. It would program, test of door operation was fine, then saved. Switched driver profile to check wife’s profile, and no garage link programmed, huh ? Wasn’t aware of this before ?
    >
    > So I programmed her profile for garage door, tested and saved. So I changed profile back to me, and low and behold, garagelink needed programming again ? House icon wasn’t green as it was seconds ago, but grayed out. So I programmed both again, after 3 attempts it appeared to work for both profiles, hmmmm.
    >
    > We leave house and upon returning to car, we get unable to drive alert again. Two quick presses on keyfob and we’re going again.
    >
    > Upon returning home, garagelink is grayed out and requiring re programming, huh ?
    >
    > So hard rebooted both screens and after the garage link needed programming again....
    >
    > Drove it straight to Tesla to request they look at logs, service reps look up error, and state that’s normal op for SW 2019.17.11 with passive entry turned off. We have an earlier ver, and I asked for another service appointment. I get an appoint for next week, and Service requested I keep log and time stamp of errors.
    >
    > Haven’t seen this alert before, how about you ?

    I had the same problem. I was charging at Sheetz Tesla Supercharger and went into the gas station to get a drink. Came back to the car and I was locked out. Sentry Mode in full swing and would not let me in. Called Tesla and they opened it remotely. Asked me to re boot the computer which I did and the problem seemed to go away. Got home, parked it in the garage and went inside. I needed to take something out of the car later and locked out again. Sentry mode!!. Called Tesla and they didn't have a clue. Fortunately I had an extra battery for the key fob an replaced it. Everything was back to normal. I walk close to the car and the door handles pop out, full access granted. I asked the Tesla support guy before as to whether it could be a weak key fob battery and he didn't think it was and I had no warning of any kind that the battery was dead. Try replacing the key fob battery, it may just solve your problem.
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