Installing the Wall Connector

edited November -1 in General
It's a hot day here in Phoenix, but it's also the day when we installed my Wall Connector. I'm still sweating from the experience.

For background, I got three quotes. Two were from companies on Tesla's recommended list for Phoenix. And one was from my solar installers. One quote was $1,995, one $1,200 and one $550. All included a 60 amp circuit. The difference? One of Tesla's folks quoted three options, one for the straight Wall Connector installation ($895 plus the Wall Connector), one with additional work on the panel ($1,100 plus the Wall Connector) and one that included replacing the panel ($1,995 plus the Wall Connector). The other Tesla recommendation quote $1,200) included the Wall Connector. And the third from my solar installer was for an 'RV outlet'. Close enough. So, I bought a new Wall Connector on eBay $350) and picked the solar installer.

The circuitry is the easy part. We ran wires from the back of the house along the wall to the edge of the garage, then penetrated the outside wall and mounted the Wall Connector inside the garage. Straightforward. The wiring of the Wall Connector is explained in the book, but there's a couple of small issues.

First, you have to know the type of circuit. If you have two hot wires, then you set a pair of DIP switches one way. If you have a different setup, you set the DIP switches a different way. Then, you have to set the circuit wattage using a rotating switch. BOTH THE DIP SWITCHES AND THE ROTARY SWITCH ARE VERY SMALL. I had to use a magnifying glass to make out the numbers. ALSO, because they're small, you need a VERY SMALL SCREWDRIVER OR PICK to manipulate them. I used a jeweler's screwdriver for the rotary switch.

And the most confounding thing we spent time on was the connection of the power leads from the junction block in the baseplate of the Wall Connector to the electronics side. The wires Tesla supplies have special crimped ends. They're not square, but trapezoidal (one parallel side is shorter than the other), and fit into the sockets in the electronics side only one way. THE SCREWS FOR THE CONNECTION OPERATE A GUILLOTINE SOCKET, meaning that you have to unscrew the set screw as far as it can go, push the screw back as far as it will go, then insert the cable connector with the wider side pointing out and screw the connection tight to torque spec's. The screw pulls the back of the socket forward, compressing the wire connector. It took an electrician ten minutes to figure that out, and two minutes to do the work once he did.

Now, where's my car?


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