One of the most common comments I see on this forum is "why is Tesla misleading me about my vehicle's range". There are actually four "ranges" which are critical to consider, and the descriptions below may be helpful for those confused as to what "range" means.
Rated Range: The advertised range for the vehicle as determined by the EPA under defined and controlled operating and ambient conditions.
Projected Range: The remaining vehicle range shown on the energy chart screen determined by dividing the remaining usable battery capacity (watt-hours) by the average efficiency (wh/mi) over the chart’s displayed mileage range.
Estimated Range: The range displayed on the main screen green bar determined by dividing the remaining usable battery capacity (watt-hours) by the efficiency factor (wh/mi) established for the vehicle by the EPA (e.g. 220 wh/mi for the SR+). Note that when the energy chart efficiency (wh/mi) over the chart range displayed is equal to the efficiency factor established by the EPA, the "Projected Range" is equal to the "Estimated Range" at that time.
Actual Range: The actual range of the vehicle is equal to the Estimated Range divided by an “efficiency modification factor” (EMF). Where the operating and ambient conditions are identical to those under the EPA range/efficiency-determination testing, the EMF equals 1.0, and the Actual Range is equal to the Estimated Range. Where operating and ambient conditions are more favorable than those in the EPA test procedure (e.g. “hyper-miling”), the EMF is less than 1.0, and actual range will exceed estimated range. Where operating and ambient conditions are less favorable than those in the EPA test procedure, the EMF is greater than 1.0, and the actual range will be less than the estimated range. Such negative factors include: higher speeds, uphill driving, stop-and-go driving, rain/snow, head winds, tire pressure, etc.
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Porsche range: Lowest for the price paid
If, as you say, they start off with a range "75% less than the rated range", then lose another 25% due to weather as you said, that pretty much is a loss of 100% of their range. I think I know what you meant, but what you said is nonsense.
Fish is known for nonsense.
I drive 75-80 mph most of the time (pretty much always in good weather) and my actual range is about 93% of the rated range. So that might give an idea of how much the high speed driving affects range.
Loss of 100% is nothing left. I think you mean 50%...
I work at home, my commute is from the coffee pot to my macadamia orchard (our property) and most of my daily driving is local. I was plugging in roughly every 5 days or so.
I went to charging to 85%, so I only have to plug in about once a week...long story with a lot of variables on why I only plug in as infrequently as possible.
I'm waiting for Tesla to develop EV farm tractors and mowers;-) I'd love a Tesla ATVs.
If they charge to 85% and don't discharge below 10%, their effective capacity is 75%. Effective range would be 75% of Rated Range. Then another 20-30% duration for Winter. Charging above 85% on the road at fast chargers can take a long time so effective range for travel is similar.
I know for a fact i would make out just fine with half the gasoline capacity i have now, with insignificant differences.
It wasn't me that said it, it was FISHEV. Quote: ".... that will give them a range 75% less than EPA Rated Range. Colder weather operations, 40F and down, will take another 25% of range. Going over 60 mph starts to eat into overall range." If you start off with "75% less", then take away another 25%, you pretty much do have ZERO left. Fish just doesn't understand numbers.
There was another time in a different car where I was just stupid and waited until the last minute to stop for gas, and the car literally ran out of gas as I was pulling into the gas station and I coasted up to the pump.
Not really. If you went on a long drive and then reached 10% when you were 20 miles from home, you wouldn't just stop and call roadside assistance. You would keep driving and make it home just fine. You may not need that 10% most of the time, but your effective capacity is still all the way down to 0 because it's there if you need it.
The flashing light means start looking for a cheap gas station, even if you have to drive another 50 miles.
And how far did you fill it?
twitter.com/Blue__Jay__/status/1215520978207494144
My friends boss bought the I-pace, with heat on she can’t even get 100 city miles on a single charge
She’s currently trying to return it, fighting with the dealer.
Probably can count on one hand the number of times I didn't fill an ICE until the pump clicked. And most of those where low on gas and the place was highway robbery.... So just enough to move on down the road to a real gas station. There are a couple of those traps in PA that I refuse to stop at.