When removing the panel under the glovebox Tesla’s procedure indicates the speaker in the panel should be disconnected. Would be interested to know if you do disconnect the speaker and your experience with the wire connector at the speaker. Does it just slide out. Does pushing on the nib release it smoothly? Thanks!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rzkU4fya3cA
When I opened up the side panel, half the clips had never been installed but were sitting on the floor. No way to know which one’s went where.
Had to take it to Tesla to put back together.
Cumbersome process but doable if you don’t have the plug and clip issues. Luck of the build .
First off, the clips probably were installed, but came loose when you pulled the panel off (if you really ever did). Once you pull the panel off if you aren't careful they clips easily come loose, which was the purpose of warning others in my post above. The clips are identical, and it's very evident where they go.
Did you remove the speaker wire connector?
I chose to take them both lose and get the panel completely out of the way rather than risk something going wrong and accidentally yanking the wires that were left connected loose.
Then you are not competent enough for any DIY repair. There is clear from the rest of your post as well.
Agreed. Would be much nicer if that screws were on the bottom of the panel and not on top.
> “Screw is absolute pain in the ass.”
>
> Agreed. Would be much nicer if that screws were on the bottom of the panel and not on top.
>
Yep, don't know why they didn't do that. I had to run to Lowes to get a flexible bit holder. No way was I going to get a torx in there with any other method.
Torx bit on a ratchet works too
The clips are about the most trivial thing in the world; you can either put them back into the slots in the console, or you can place them on the tabs on the panel.
And, yes, the designer who put the screw at the top of the cover plate rather than at the bottom should be drawn and quartered prior to being fired.
These kind of issues often present themselves in hindsight. Access should have been considered but was either missed or it was designed out of context. I've seen these kind of issues in many cars. Just don't drop the screw into the void.
But, I still feel the sting of a similar bad design that Ford put into my old Exploder - they used a plastic blade in the A/C system for blending hot/cold air which (due to another poor design decision) breaks after awhile. They installed the blade assembly from the top of the air duct (which is inaccessible in the vehicle) rather than the bottom (which is easy to access). So the first instruction in the repair manual for fixing the $2 broken plastic blade was "Remove Dash" - which is hilarious to those of us who wrench on our own cars.
I was a little worried about all the reports about how hard it was to get that torx screw out and the supposed need for some kind of flexy metal on the torx screwdriver. But, interestingly enough, a full-size screwdriver with a torx bit fits right into the screw with the handle straight to the right. Almost as if (wait for it).. somebody had designed the plastic dash parts so there'd be room for a full-size screwdriver :smile:.
I, too, managed to lose one of those plastic clips from under the glove compartment general area. Found a replacement at an auto parts store: They got lots.
Next time it'll take ten minutes rather than 30.
As for FISHEV: It's questionable as to whether the idiot even _has_ a Tesla. Probably just spewing FUD, as usual.
My point with the speaker connector was something had to be messed up with it because from what I get unlike the light which has push tabs the speaker supposedly just slides out. Little #@%+ would just not budge. And then I used then I tried force. Opps!
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