Model 3

Question for those who DIY cabin air filter

When removing the panel under the glovebox Tesla’s procedure indicates the speaker in the panel should be disconnected. Would be interested to know if you do disconnect the speaker and your experience with the wire connector at the speaker. Does it just slide out. Does pushing on the nib release it smoothly? Thanks!

Comments

  • Yes and yes, very smooth, as this YouTube video demo shows at 4:03
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rzkU4fya3cA
  • When replacing mine I found that using a flexible 1/4" extension for removing the torx screw that holds the filter cover in place made it much easier. Also be careful with the clips on the console side panel. I lost one the first time I did it. I now keep a handful of spares in the glove box.
  • The electrical connections, one came out the other would not. Could work around the one the stayed in but could not get the one that came out back in.

    When I opened up the side panel, half the clips had never been installed but were sitting on the floor. No way to know which one’s went where.

    Had to take it to Tesla to put back together.

    Cumbersome process but doable if you don’t have the plug and clip issues. Luck of the build .
  • Lol what a surprise Fish couldn't handle simple task of replacing a filters. What a loser.
  • @FISHEV, "When I opened up the side panel, half the clips had never been installed but were sitting on the floor. No way to know which one’s went where."

    First off, the clips probably were installed, but came loose when you pulled the panel off (if you really ever did). Once you pull the panel off if you aren't careful they clips easily come loose, which was the purpose of warning others in my post above. The clips are identical, and it's very evident where they go.
  • @gmr6415

    Did you remove the speaker wire connector?
  • @Yes. If I remember correctly one of them, either the speaker or the light, was a little tricky. I can't remember which, but I also think there is enough wire to leave one of them attached and swing the panel aside. It's been almost a year.

    I chose to take them both lose and get the panel completely out of the way rather than risk something going wrong and accidentally yanking the wires that were left connected loose.
  • Light was easy to remove and I left speaker wire in place.
  • I'll jsut add to what most have said, you don't "need to remove the speaker or light wire but its nice to do it anyways and get it out of the way. They are standard clip connectors and you will figure it out quickly
  • I did not disconnect them, just left it hanging, it was not in the way.
  • I was able to replace the filters without disconnecting the wires, was able to work around them.
  • “ The electrical connections, one came out the other would not.”

    Then you are not competent enough for any DIY repair. There is clear from the rest of your post as well.
  • I must add. Screw is absolute pain in the ass.
  • “Screw is absolute pain in the ass.”

    Agreed. Would be much nicer if that screws were on the bottom of the panel and not on top.
  • I removed the passenger panel many times to do a few mods including replacing the air filters. I tried so many times at removing the speaker clip but have not been successful. I have given up and just settled on moving the panel aside with the speaker wire still attached.
  • > @lbowroom said:
    > “Screw is absolute pain in the ass.”
    >
    > Agreed. Would be much nicer if that screws were on the bottom of the panel and not on top.
    >

    Yep, don't know why they didn't do that. I had to run to Lowes to get a flexible bit holder. No way was I going to get a torx in there with any other method.
  • Thanks everyone who answered. I am experienced at wire connectors etc. The light connector has obvious push tabs. My speaker connector would not come off. Used a small punch to push the nib and still no luck. Eventually got aggressive enough I broke it. Tesla fixed $0. Not sure why speaker connectors don’t release on some cars but my advice is don’t push it. If the speaker connector does not come off easily call service. Get that some have trouble with the side panel clips. Need to look and think before you reconnect or the little white receiver part of the clip will just push themselves into the black hole. Trick is if some of the receiver parts of the side panel clips stay in the center console you have to carefully pull them out and put them back on the side panel. Funny the torx was a cakewalk for me. Small hands and used to working on little stuff. Thanks again!
  • "No way was I going to get a torx in there with any other method."

    Torx bit on a ratchet works too
  • I remember the connectors as being fiddly and a bit difficult to figure out how to disconnect them. Most of that has to do with presbyopia, such that anything that close looks like a fuzzball, but I digress.
    The clips are about the most trivial thing in the world; you can either put them back into the slots in the console, or you can place them on the tabs on the panel.

    And, yes, the designer who put the screw at the top of the cover plate rather than at the bottom should be drawn and quartered prior to being fired.
  • "the designer who put the screw at the top of the cover plate rather than at the bottom should be drawn and quartered"

    These kind of issues often present themselves in hindsight. Access should have been considered but was either missed or it was designed out of context. I've seen these kind of issues in many cars. Just don't drop the screw into the void.
  • I agree; as an R&D engineer myself who's had to live for years with mistakes I made in V1 of a product, I understand how the screw position happened, and why it didn't get changed.

    But, I still feel the sting of a similar bad design that Ford put into my old Exploder - they used a plastic blade in the A/C system for blending hot/cold air which (due to another poor design decision) breaks after awhile. They installed the blade assembly from the top of the air duct (which is inaccessible in the vehicle) rather than the bottom (which is easy to access). So the first instruction in the repair manual for fixing the $2 broken plastic blade was "Remove Dash" - which is hilarious to those of us who wrench on our own cars.
  • Dunno, I'm an engineer, and did the filter replacement. The connectors didn't actually give me any trouble; just looked at them, squeezed or whatever, and out they came.
    I was a little worried about all the reports about how hard it was to get that torx screw out and the supposed need for some kind of flexy metal on the torx screwdriver. But, interestingly enough, a full-size screwdriver with a torx bit fits right into the screw with the handle straight to the right. Almost as if (wait for it).. somebody had designed the plastic dash parts so there'd be room for a full-size screwdriver :smile:.
    I, too, managed to lose one of those plastic clips from under the glove compartment general area. Found a replacement at an auto parts store: They got lots.
    Next time it'll take ten minutes rather than 30.
    As for FISHEV: It's questionable as to whether the idiot even _has_ a Tesla. Probably just spewing FUD, as usual.
  • Thanks @Tronguy

    My point with the speaker connector was something had to be messed up with it because from what I get unlike the light which has push tabs the speaker supposedly just slides out. Little #@%+ would just not budge. And then I used then I tried force. Opps!
  • If anyone wants to make changing the cabin air filter easier. I designed this replacement screw so that you won't need any tools or headaches removing or installing the air filter access panel. If you've replaced the filter before, you know what I mean.

    You can buy it here. It's shipping in February.

    http://ebay.us/igOjTX?cmpnId=5338273189
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