Comments

• jlquinn_98310057

  November 2018 edited November 2018

  I think you're talking about the wires with square terminals on the ends. With those, I really had to back the screws out far, then shove the wire ends in as far as possible. It took me a couple times to get it right.

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• Jile.gao_98351688

  November 2018 edited November 2018

  I am indeed talking about the square terminal wires. As I mentioned, I shoved them all the way in where the yellow coating at the end was not visible, but it still wasn't enough.

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• Dan_Foster

  November 2018 edited November 2018

  The back of the saddle moves away from you when you loosen the screw; tightening the screw pulls the back of the saddle towards you and clenches the wire. When the saddle is loose, you can easily miss—especially since the wire is thick and hard to bend.
  
  If you still can’t get it by feel, get a cheap dental mirror from the drug store and use it to watch the saddle move while you turn the screw—you’ll see see where the wire goes for sure. Good luck!

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• Jile.gao_98351688

  November 2018 edited November 2018

  That is some primo advice. Thank you!

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• bp

  November 2018 edited November 2018

  Tesla provides specifications on the amount of torque to be applied for the posts. When Tesla installed our Gen 2 HPWC, I believe they not only took measurements, they also took photographs of the measurements to document they had made the connections correctly.
  
  Especially if you're going to run high amps through the HPWC, improperly connecting the HPWC to the power cables could pose a safety/fire hazard.
  
  When our first HPWC was installed, the first breaker it was connected to melted, because it had not been properly seated by the electrician during installation...

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• Dan_Foster

  December 2018 edited December 2018

  @bp: indeed, it is important to seat and torque the connections properly—sounds like your electrician was extremely careless at the breaker side, I wouldn’t hire that guy again!
  
  The Tesla Wall Connector monitors the temperature at the terminal block, and will dial back the charging current if it’s too hot—so not much risk on the wall connector side. Of course there is no such safety on the breaker side, but those connections are made while holding the breaker in your hand, outside the panel where it’s easy to see. It’s surprising and discouraging that an /electrician/ messed this up for you.

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• mattjurek_98219883

  March 2019 edited March 2019

  My terminal block melted so it doesn't measure temperature well!

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• Dan_Foster

  March 2019 edited March 2019

  @mattjurek, unlikely, since the terminal block is designed to carry more current than necessary. More likely, the wire was under specification for the amperage, so the wire melted.

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• TeslaTap.com

  March 2019 edited November -1

  Temperature is measured in the Tesla side of the connector - not the wall connection. I think Dan hit on the issue. Two other reasons - improper mix of aluminum wire and incompatible receptacle, or the connections at the receptacle were not properly torqued. Might be time for a different electrician to fix the problem.

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• drbrockley_98568267

  November 2019 edited November 2019

  This was exactly what I needed. Thanks! I am also having trouble with getting the terminal block to grip the wire. I am using 4 gauge wire without any crimped on square ends in a low profile mount with rear entry wiring. Has anyone successfully done this or do I need to find ferrules for the wire as per page 19 of the wall connector instruction manual? Has anyone found a source for the specific ferrules that will fit the terminal block?

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• drbrockley_98568267

  November 2019 edited November 2019

  So I was able to connect it without the ferrules. Tips for others: bend the wire so that when you are pushing it into the connection block it is going in straight. Most importantly, when you loosen the screw before inserting the wire, you need to push on the loosened screw to move the screw assembly into the connection block; this will line up the passageway for the wire to slip in. This is why I was having trouble and using a small mirror showed me the solution.

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• TeslaTap.com

  November 2019 edited November 2019

  @drbrockley - Are you using Alumimum wires? If so, make sure the terminal block is rated for aluminum wire, and you should use some no-ox on the wires before clamping down. Lastly, it's fairly important that the screws be torqued to the recommendations. If using copper, then none of this applies.

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• drbrockley_98568267

  November 2019 edited November 2019

  Thanks for the feedback, TeslaTap. I did use copper 4 gauge two conductors plus ground and tightened the screws as much as I could without stripping the head.

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• TeslaTap.com

  November 2019 edited November 2019

  Great! I always recommend copper, as it is just easier to get right. Aluminum is ok if everything is done right, but it requires more steps that are often unknown or ignored.

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• SUN 2 DRV

  March 2020 edited March 2020

  I was having this exact problem and it was very frustrating to be so close to finishing the installation and I just couldn't get the wires to be engaged by the terminal strip.
  
  Dan Foster your description was perfect to better understand how the terminal strip mechanism works since it's recessed and not very visible. And thanks for suggesting a dental mirror. I'd been using a small cosmetic mirror and just couldn't see much. You reminded me that I also had put aside a dental mirror just for situations like this.
  
  With Dan's insights I was able to get the cables installed securely in my very next try. THANKS!

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