It’s about that time for one of our Tesla’s to have battery replaced. Has anyone done this recently? What’s the cost?
Which one? It is usually $0. Most are covered under warranty.
If it is your June 2015 70D, it is under warranty until 2023.
The Battery and Drive Unit in your car are covered for a period of:
Model S and Model X – 8 years (with the exception of the original 60 kWh battery manufactured before 2015, which is covered for a period of 8 years or 125,000 miles, whichever comes first).https://www.tesla.com/support/vehicle-warranty
0, so far.
Ok. I guess the question is what constitutes the warranty to kick In for Tesla either replacing dead cells or replacing the battery altogether? Yes it is the 2015 Model S I am speaking of. It has 90k miles on it and only charges to 197 miles now at 90%.
197 @ 90% for a 90K 70D sounds normal to me.
If you are entitled to a new battery, then you have to get in line behind me. I am at 75k miles, and my 90% is 194.
May 2015 70D
I assumed this was about the 12V because nothing else made sense.
This is why you buy the big battery.
What makes you think it is time to replace the battery?
Wait. A 70D had a range of 230 miles. 90% of that is 207. So you're wanting to pay for a new battery for ten miles loss of range?
Anyway, you can figure a minimum cost to $100/kWh for cells alone, I think that's the latest numbers, so a 70kWh battery would be more than $7000. If the 70s were actually locked 75s, that would raise it to $7500. Packs also include cooling and BMS hardware, plus of course the physical frame. Add shipping and return shipping for the old battery. Installation seems like it would be fairly cheap, given they had a battery swap system at one point, so you get to save on that.
Good luck, and let us know the price tag.
I was talking to a guy on Facebook who bought a new battery for his Model S, outside of warranty. He said it was $18,000 for the part and the labor. I don't know what size battery that was though.
Ummm even if your battery up and died, what difference would it make as to what the key would be? You wouldn’t have to pay for it. It would be financially foolish to by a whole new battery for losing solittle range.
I’ve got 47k on my 2015 Model S 85. I’ve found that a trip uses 125% power. If my car can travel ~260 miles fully charged, for example, I can only expect to get a little over 200 miles of range. So, if chargers are further than 200 miles apart, I can’t travel.
I contacted Tesla but they didn’t find any flags in my data and therefore can’t help me. I’d love to upgrade to a 100 for extra range.
Charging speed dropped on my 85D too long to do Road trips .I wish to change with high speed chargeable and long range battery.
@Kevinwi & @SnowFlake- The only upgrade is to buy a new car. The 100 pack has different connectors as is not a direct plug-in for the 85. Other changes also make it very unlikely Tesla will offer a battery replacement upgrade.
@teslatap, what about a 60 pack being upgraded to an 85 pack? Tesla still has to have 85 packs available for warranty exchanges... so it would seem reasonable that they should allow one to buy an 85 pack to upgrade your 60. Thoughts?
@Renzo - Technically possible, and I'm aware of one owner that had Tesla do a 60 to 85 conversion. It seemed soon after that Tesla stopped offering that option, but it was never explained why. I think the price was in the $24K range.
It doesn’t seem cost effective for Tesla to continue making 60 - 85 batteries for the sole purpose of warranty replacements. Or am I crazy?
They are all refurbished packs on the 85s, meaning they arent making them still.
@GoldAK47 cool name!
@Kevinwi your number is consistent with what 85/90kWh Tesla batteries do in the real world. I’m sure you can stretch that to ~230 miles but ~200 is most common especially during colder months.
If Tesla does not support the MS with replacement packs, then I bet some smart folks will see a business opportunity. If not, I will root the car, and when the pack goes, turn it into a powerwall.
Darth, thank ya.
Aerodyne, I think thats correct as well. You will be able to find batteries, and people will swap them. Tesla is very anti consumer repairs, so it will be interesting to see how it ends up.
Yes need the charging speed back. But Tesla can adjust the frequency to destroy the dendrites forming in the battery. I have seen some model3s are losing range faster than my model S...
Gold AK47, “...Tesla is very anti consumer repairs”. Please keep things in perspective here. Tesla can not afford to have someone monkeying around with their car, then something goes wrong because of that, but it’s Tesla’s name that makes the news. Think about all of the reports cars crashing while using AP. The headline is never,”....owner was not paying attention and crashed”. It’s, “.....Tesla crashes while on AP”.
Additionally, the chances of someone not being 100% careful they will die from being shocked if they mess with battery pack.
There are plenty of parts on the car that have nothing to do with the HV system. Tesla really should have a big under hood switch that isolates the HV battery. The "cut here" wire loop helps, but it isn't totally clear if un-clipping the wire's connector is reversible without SC assistance.
Renzo, maybe you should contact Jason Hughes at https://hsrmotors.com/products. He's also on teslamotorsclub.com where you look for userid wk057
jordanrichard - Oh I totally get them not wanting people to work on them. Half the cars on the road now with issues are cause by the owner working on them.
Daisy the Road - Yes, you can unclip the HV wire as you please. I have done it many times. No SC visit needed.
@Daisy the Road ... "Tesla really should have a big under hood switch that isolates the HV battery. The "cut here" wire loop helps, but it isn't totally clear if un-clipping the wire's connector is reversible without SC assistance."
Yes, you can disconnect it without ramifications. A Tesla service ranger showed me how to do it in my Raven MX last month at a Supercharger in Maryland. In this case the car would not initiate a Supercharge, or even acknowledge the charger. We tried both kinds of reboots to no avail, so Tesla sent a ranger, who happened to be within an hour's distance. He did two addition "reboot", which are really deeper resets - disconnecting both the 12v and the HV batteries. It worked, although left me a bit concerned about on-the-road reliability - how many folks know how to do this, or would be willing to mess with the HV battery?
PD, so two additional reboots disconnected the batteries....?
Disconnecting the batteries caused the two additional reboots, if I read the post correctly.
We hit debris on the highway and as a result, they have to replace our Model 3 LR battery which is going to cost $16,000. Far more than the $100kwh figure.
@stuartpost - bummer. I hope insurance covers it.
Tesla has never stated the battery cell costs or costs per kWh. That's all third parties guessing what Tesla's internal costs are to make a cell. The cell cost is also only part of the pack cost. It has to be assembled, there are quite a bit of electronics in the pack to monitor temperatures and cell voltages and alow balancing - commonly called the BMS (Battery Management System). Add to that the aluminum shell. Then there is the disassembly and reassembly of the pack in your car, a non-trivial task. Lastly, shipping 1000 pound large crates could cost another $2000 or so depending on where it has to be shipped.
Are they giving you any credit for the old pack? It can be recycled, but I don't know that the return shipping and recycling cost yield any profit to pass back to you.
@stuartpost, I know the model s would cover road debris under the warranty.
@jordanrichard "PD, so two additional reboots disconnected the batteries....?"
Disconnecting the batteries causes reboot - a reboot that's deeper than the steering wheel process - think of it like unplugging an old pc that has a frozen green screen of death, and then plugging it back in. It clears the sinuses.
I had the ranger show me how because he indicated that it is an increasing cause of service calls - and is nearly an end user job, but without knowing how you have to either wait for service or a flatbed when the supercharger that you just reached cannot "see" the car and vice versa. Tesla does not recommend that an owner do this and the telephone service people won't tell you how - but it is fairly innocuous when demonstrated. I haven't yet needed to do it myself, but would not hesitate if needed.
Is that where you pull the back seat to get at a connector? I've seen a video redefining a "hard reboot." Used to just mean foot on the brake and a longer scroll wheel press.
I wonder if that is the bright orange disconnect cable loop in the frunk. It is just a 12v line that drops out the battery pack's internal contactors. Not sure if it would reboot 12v stuff though.
On the 3 you can do it by removing the rear seat cushion. Cushion is very easy to remove, just un lip two big plastic clips. You can search a YouTube video easily how to.
@PD, is disconnecting the HV battery accomplished by disconnecting the connector of the "cut here" loop? It would make sense. The 12V battery studs would be a bit more difficult to reach, but doable on the road.
Hello. I have a 2012 P85. Last week it suddenly stopped supercharging Burbank decided the battery needed to be replaced. They call me today to tell me that they've replaced it and everything is fine. Fully charged at the "trip" level, it is reading 217 miles and the Service center is giving me all sorts of confusing language about how I DO have a new battery but they "matched" it to my existing system so it will charge to just about where I was charging before. They also said that the battery hasn't learned my driving habits and that they just can't put a battery in there without matching it to the way it was charging before.
How does that make any sense? Can anyone weigh in on what their results were after getting a battery replaced?
Is this a new battery or not? Is this a refurb battery replaced to work like me 7 yr old battery? Is what they are telling me legit?
@jorgedv - I assume you're talking about the main pack battery and not the 12v battery? It's my understanding that warranty replacement packs are a refurbished pack. Occasionally I've heard of owners getting a new pack when there is no refurishment inventory, but that seems very rare. Your 'bad' back has gone back to the factory to be repaired and added to the refurbishment pool. This means your replacement pack should provide about the same range as your old pack, but as to how close, that's an unknown.
While I suppose they could repair your pack, it could take months while your car is in-op. I've also heard of a few cases where they provided a loaner battery while the battery is being repaired. I haven't heard of this being done for a few years now, but perhaps someone else can add more.
It's refurbed and they try to match range of your previous battery.
Its a refurb battery, its made up of old cells similar to your failed one. What sucks is, its still an old pack. You dont know the history...were half the cells supercharged to 100% daily? Who knows. We know the pack failed, and they are giving you cells that survived. If you watch individual cells voltage under acceleration, you can tell when you have a weak pack....certain modules will cave.
Ok, that makes sense. The tech was very careful NOT to mention refurbished and when I asked him if it was a new battery, he then started with the "Yes, all the cells are new so yes, it is basically a new battery but we can't just put a new battery in, we need to "match" your new battery to the CAC controller module otherwise it just wouldn't work if we didn't match it to the system in the car. so you will end up with the same or slightly higher charging level than you were before and I see that before you were at just over 200 and now you are charging slightly more (217) than you were before. Another thing is that the new battery needs to learn your driving habits and as it learns them, it will start adjusting and the range may go up". I responded with, so you are telling me that the battery needs to learn my driving habits? The new cars have never been driven either and they have new batteries, they don't have to learn a thing to reflect a 300 mile range. That is when they come back with "You don't understand, we have to match the new battery to your older controller and that is why it doesn't show more mileage".
So by the time he is finished with his speech, he hasn't said it is refurbished or NOT new, just that it is charging at a higher level than it was before. I asked the manager if the battery was new and he said yes. So when I asked him then why isn't 85% of 300 at 250-255? I told him that when the car was 3-4 years old, 85% was 242 so how is a new replacement battery not getting a full 300 mile charge? I told him that if I get a new battery on anything else, it does not have to be "matched to anything"
He told me that he understand and he will get with engineering to have them explain it because if he were me and got a new pack, he would be wondering the same thing. So I'm waiting for their response but your explanations above make the most sense. They just give you a refurbed 2012 battery.
It should say REFURB or something similar on your parts invoice.
None of that makes sense. so in a couple years when you go to replace a worn battery that has outlived its life and diminished range, they will put in a "refurb" battery that also has diminished range? Example, you originally had a 260mi range, and after 10 years, you are down to say, 150mi range and go to replace the battery, they will put in another one that also gets 150 range? Seems to defeat the purpose.
It also seems to make these cars absolutely worthless at the end of the first battery, if they can't "renew" the range with a new battery
@jorgedv - The implication from what you were told is the cells are new, but the pack frame may be refurbished, such as the aluminum frame. There are also parts of the pack that can't be reused, such as the lid, as it is glued on and is destroyed when removed. Now it is possible they put in a 100/90/85 kW pack for your 75 and software limit it to 75. This would require some adjustments to match your car. There was talk about a "new" 85 pack version, but no details as to what is new about it. Clearly it is only for replacements.
Also, the range will not get well-calibrated until you discharge to 20% and change to 100%. This has nothing to do with your driving habits, but they may be thinking at some point you will do this and it will better calibrate the range at that point. The real battery range is not affected by a miscalibrated range indicator.
Have you looked at the battery label? On the floor, look at the pack lable behind the passenger wheel. It may tell you more.
@wagner - This is only for warranty replacements. They only need to provide an equivalent range before the battery died. Now out of warranty you can buy a new battery and get the original range - perhaps more if it is stocked full of a newer cell design.
You're confusing an 8 year warranty replacement with a new battery refresh on the customer's dime.