Has anyone purchased this item? If so, please comment on it’s performance.
Mine's very loud on coarsely paved roads, so I'd be interested as well, if anyone has experience with this type of product on any vehicle?
well as he posted the identical thread on TWC and the fact that it has zero reviews on Amazon and is sold by some weird seller only. I am going to say he created it. Why don't you actually tell us how it works?
Here in Pennsylvania the winters can be brutal with all ice, snow, and slush. I doubt this product can stand up to Pennsylvania winters. If it works as well as advertised, I can see it benefiting those in milder climates, like So Cal or Florida.
I have difficulty believing that this can achieve 30dB sound reduction (as shown in that Amazon link).
Don’t believe it.
I’ve added sound deadening to my wheel wells on my S. It improves, but not a whole lot.
What I added was like Dynamat but a different brand.
So the 30 dB claim is highly suspect.
It would be great if there was some sort of certification from a respected authority that could substantiate the claimed benefits.
If it turns out to be baseless marketing specs, then shame on Amazon for carrying this merchandise.
Should work but I'm a bit concerned over it being cotton construction. Wouldn't that absorb water when wet and be a fired hazard when dry?
It's a noisy car over 45 mph. Fact of life. I'll wait to see how the Pirelli P Zero All Seasons do when I replace the OEM Michelins on the car.
Model 3 was criticized quite heavily for wind and road noise in the early builds. Tesla did everything practicable to reduce the noise - and the difference in the newer builds is quite remarkable when driving over 55mph. I know because I envy the newer cars' reduced wind noise (this is different from road noise)
With that context, I do not think any non-factory product would make a noticeable difference with road noise. Tesla did everything practical to reduce the wind noise after the initial complaints.
Now, if @NVHarmony came back and endorsed this product, I'd buy it in an instant - but he basically said the current build was an excellent job in reducing car interior noise. So, I belive him more than anyone/anything else.
Drastic noise reduction, LoL. No data, which is easy to measure, no sale.
So at this time there is no way to reduce the wind noise that occurs between the roof and frame? The noise is reproduced for my M3 at ~ 50 mph or greater. Actually took it in and the mechanic did a ride along. To paraphrase, he said it would be unlikely to change anything if he replaced the roof. Anyone having similar issues? and or have a solution?
I have a solution - turn on some music! :)
“If it turns out to be baseless marketing specs, then shame on Amazon for carrying this merchandise.”
Guys, please take a look at the install photos in that page on Amazon. Do you see what I’m getting at?
That’s right, that big gaping hole for the suspension is going to transmit every bit of road noise up. Same thing happened to me when I was doing my Model S, which I have completely done (trunk, under the seats, doors, frunk and the wheel wells.
The biggest gain was from the trunk and under the rear seats, and near the C pillar covers where some holes were left in-plugged (not ventilation holes).
Rear wheel wells and inside of shock towers might have improved some, it was hard to tell.
The front wheel wells were like Swiss cheese. Too many holes you cannot possibly cover.
Forget about this product. Seriously.
Heck no! I wouldn’t call it a scam, but pretty close. No way is it worth 30 dB reduction. That would be more than a 95% reduction in sound pressure. 30 dB is a HUGE difference and would be like the power suddenly going out at a rock concert.
I’ll spare everyone the NVH 101, but just know that there is no “silver bullet” in noise control. It’s all many small incremental changes, each of which is hardly noticeable, but together add up to something you can hear.
I know the Tesla NVH team who made the Model 3 the way it is, and they truly did everything they could within the constraints of cost, weight, packaging space and physics to make road and wind noise pretty good in the car. Maybe not great, but pretty good.
Also keep in mind that Elon prefers the Tesla brand to be known as one with excellent vehicle dynamics and athletic response. Given the high weight of the car (relative to other similarly sized cars), the only way to achieve that kind of “athletic” response is to have the suspension tuning heavily biased to the stiff side: stiff springs and shocks, stiff bushings, stiff tires, etc. Basic physics says that this will have significant negative effect on road surface isolation (remember roller skates with metal wheels?). There is simply no way around it. No amount of fluff in the wheel wells will do any good since most of what is coming through to your ears is low frequency structure borne noise through the suspension and body structure.
I wouldn’t waste your money on the Amazon product.
“It’s all many small incremental changes, each of which is hardly noticeable, but together add up to something you can hear.”
From my experience doing the sound deadening on my S, I concur 100%!
No Joshan, I did not create it. Just curious and wanted any available feedback. WOW
Many Youtube videos on soundproof the 3 in various ways but none I've seen so far can reduce by more than a few decibels. Probably not worth the $400 (it is $100K per wheel arch, right?) and few hours of your time.
"none I've seen so far can reduce by more than a few decibels. "@pkmantmc
That's actually a lot of reduction as db are logarithmic scale. In the audiophile tests around here somewhere difference in Tesla and Lexus was 67 vs. 64 which is big sound difference. If you can get the Model 3 down to 64 db from 67 that would be a good deal and very noticeable in the car.
"Probably not worth the $400 (it is $100K per wheel arch, right?)"
Nope. It says that's for a pair, and only for the front wheels. So your $100 treats two wheel wells.
I'm saving my money, though.
Not saying the pictured sound proofing would do it just saying if someone can guarantee a 3 db reduction at all speeds for $400, that's a good deal.
Typically, felt fender liners help with things like rocks getting kicked up into the fenders. I think it also helps dampen rain and water. I don't think it'll do much for normal road and tire noise. Sound Deadener Showdown had some great how-tos but they're out of business now. Lot of work if you really want to do it: https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
Thank you! I'm glad you're still visiting the forums.
If you stuff this product in your ears you should get a 30 dB reduction
I poke around the forums now and again and chime in when I come across these kinds of issues.
If I had the gumption to reduce coarse road noise on my Model 3, I would do ALL of the following:
1) Switch to 18” tires and lower the pressure to 32-34 psi (not a lot of potholes where I live). The foam in the tires really does help (but only at one frequency), so I would try to find a tire with that technology.
2) Apply as much “Dynamat” (or equivalent) from under the rear seat all the way the back, but ESPECIALLY up the rear wheelhouse sheet metal. Double, or triple layer it if possible. Might be hard to get the trim back on. A lot of the coarse road noise is coming in through the rear wheelhouses sheet metal.
3) Completely close off the hole in the rear shelf panel with something floppy and heavy. Thick rubber mats work well.
4) While you’re at it with the Dynamat, you might as well cover the whole floor pan under the carpet. double up if you dare. Even though the battery pack is under the floor, the Model 3 doesn’t use it to great acoustic advantage, while the S and X do. Dynamat might help the resonant “drum skin” noise from the floor.
5) Find and install perforated leather seats, or better yet cloth seats. They offer A LOT more acoustic absorption inside the cabin, which all Tesla’s desperately need because of all the reflective glass in these cars. The foam inside the seat cushions is an excellent acoustic absorption material, but when it is wrapped in leather, there’s no way for the sound waves to get in there and get absorbed.
In general, more is better. Whenever you’re apply material on an area, it is important to cover it 100%. Lots of small patches don’t work as well as continuous, full coverage.
I expect all of this would take 3-4 dB off the noise level from a very coarse road surface (probably more than that in various frequency ranges across the spectrum), but less if the road is smooth. You just can’t expect much more than that unless you dig deeper into the suspension and body structure, which is certainly not practical or advisable.
But, NVHarmony, what about Tigra and Bunny? If I cover up the hole in the rear shelf, how will my sub go boom?
I’ve already started on my 3. So far double layers of dynamat type material inside all the doors, frunk and trunk. lid. No discernible improvement yet.
I was looking for a video of removal of all seats in the 3. I found it last week on YouTube. Now to find time to do the entire cabin floor, rear trunk floor, inside wheel wells, like I did with my S. Need to find time, that’s all. :-)
My car is noisy on rough pavement. I doubt this would reduce by more than 1dB. It would take more extensive addition of noise absorbers to effectively reduce the noise. My hope is the section of road which bothers me is repaved as they finish up an adjacent construction effort. Then I won’t have complaints. Maybe as battery efficiency improves, extra weight for soundproofing can be added. An automated spray on process would be great, but laminated materials with aluminum foils can absorb even better.
BTW I’m using Noico 80 mil sound deadening mat and another layer of closed cell acoustic foam on top. They’ve worked well on the S. They should work well on my 3 now.
" Switch to 18” tires and lower the pressure to 32-34 psi (not a lot of potholes where I live). The foam in the tires really does help (but only at one frequency), so I would try to find a tire with that technology."@nvharmony
How do you reset the pressure alarm so it doesn't pop the low tire pressure warning on the screen?
Are there shops you know of that do the kind of sound deadening your recommend?
I’ve lowered my tire pressures from 45 PSI to 38 PSI cold. You can reset pressure sensors by using service tab and going to the TPS section, IIRC. Look it up on google otherwise.
I did that not because of noise but ride concerns. Now the ride is not too harsh, not too soft :-)
Many stereo install guys also install the noise stuff. However, I’d be weary of shops without much experience in Teslas. You can break a lot of the fasteners if you don’t know how to work on a particular piece.
Speaking from experience on my S. :-)
My husband found a foolproof way to drastically reduce wind and road noise as a passenger in my Model 3:
He takes his hearing aids out.
I’ve discovered one big issue when trying to life the car on jacks though. The car is VERY LOW to the ground. Using the Model 3 pucks and a standard jack, I was able to raise one end, but to rest it on jack stands, it is not going to work as there’s no where to put the jack stand as the puck rests on the lift.
This is, of course, to take the wheel and we’ll liner off to access the wheel well insides for the sound deadening.
I’ve found special jack with stand attachments but it is kinda expensive at 500$.
"I did that not because of noise but ride concerns."RedShift.
Did you notice any difference in noise in lowering the tire pressure?
Thanks on how to change the TPS warning level. I'll give it a try on drive to Seattle this Friday.
“Did you notice any difference in noise in lowering the tire pressure?”
A little reduction over some surfaces. Not a lot. Once I add the noise stuff to the rear wheel wells I expect more. Not so much front wheel wells.
Please be careful not to lower your tire pressure *too* far for a couple of reasons ... a little pressure reduction for ride comfort is okay (please check often!), but too much reduction comes with side effects.
First, the load capacity of the tire is reduced at lower pressures and, in extreme cases, could lead to premature tire failure because the internal belts flex too much as the tire rolls and they heat up and fray more quickly.For example, on the Michelin Primacy MXM4 in the LR RWD model, the cold tire pressure is to be set for 45 psi, so reducing to 32 psi is simply too low to be safe.
Second, the wear *across* the tread could become uneven. Low pressure could lead to the inside and outside edges wearing faster than the center portion of the tread. Thus reducing the overall useful life of the tire. Ideally, it is best to tweak the pressure (without going too low for the load capacity) to get even wear across the tread.
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