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Trailering best practices

Trailering best practices

After several successful cross country trips in our S90D (20k miles in a year) we're ready for some glamping. So we've installed an EcoHitch and ordered a Polydrops.com teardrop trailer. Related questions:

A. Supercharging: Most charging stalls require backing up to a short cable, so it seems we'll need to unhitch and disconnect the trailer each time. Any tricks?

B. Speaking of backing up... suggestions to display the output of a remote backup camera? Current plan is to use a cellphone like this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWB91VY/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1

C. The trailer has a 12V battery, solar panel and inverter for limited 110V appliances. I'd like to run a line from the car to the trailer to supplement this system. I am considering either a constant 12V source in the trunk (https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/posts/1640749/) or running a line all the way to the frunk to get more power (https://forums.tesla.com/forum/forums/tech-question-dcdc-converter). Thoughts?

D. Camping mode: It seems inefficient to have a separate HVAC system for the trailer when the car already has one, and it even works via remote control. Anyone else have crazy thoughts about ducting conditioned air into a very small well-insulated camping trailer?

Daisy the Road ... | 24 mars 2020

The supercharging issue seems to be the only major problem.
If you don't need AC, I'd consider a very small 12V heater. Inside a teardrop that will probably keep you warm enough without stressing the battery. Note that for efficiency ducting would need to be two way, one pipe bringing conditioned air, the other returning "used" air to the car.

mbirnie51 | 24 mars 2020

I have some suggestions for item A) Supercharging (SC). Only a few SC sites are "drive through" and it depends on another vehicle not being in the front stall, so you will be un-hitching alot.

First: run your rear camera at all times.
It gives you a good view of the hitch area while your driving and some limited view of traffic. It also helps when you re-hitch to keep an eye on alignment to the ball attachment, especially in the dark.

Second...wheel chocks. Use them 100% of the time to assure your trailer does not roll away after un-hitching. Even a slight incline will give the trailer momentum to roll away.

Third; If the trailer does not have a cranking lift type hitch, fashion something to help lift the tongue up off the ball during un-hitching. I looked at the website for Polydrop and couldn't see the hitch area clearly, but it may have this. Tongue weight came be considerable if you don't balance your load to keep weight even. There is a minimum tongue weight for each type of trailer and if it requires 300 lbs at the tongue, you might have to lift that. I wanted to use the adjustable suspension to aid in dropping my MX from the trailer, but when your in "Trailer Mode" that is disabled.

Forth: Travel at slow speeds to conserve range (60 MPH). When you go up a steep slope drop your speed way down (30 MPH or lower) to keep your watt-hours per mile (wh/m) as low as possible. I pulled a U-Haul from Portland OR to Concord CA (700 miles) fully loaded and was only able to average 650 wh/m, reducing my range to about 125 miles between charges in my MX 75D

That back-up camera looks like a very useful addition...I'd go for a little better quality one and see if it can record footage ( accident evidence)

Happy Trails to you.....

steev | 26 mars 2020

@Daisy I agree: I was thinking of running a duct out each of the rear windows back to the trailer.

@mbirnie51 Great idea to use the adjustable suspension to de-hitch!