Help with Autopilot information on 2016&2017 Model S

Help with Autopilot information on 2016&2017 Model S

My son is looking to purchase a used Model S. A couple of questions he has asked that I don't know how to answer:

1) ICE dealers don't know anything about Teslas - He drove 2hrs one way to a dealer to test drive a 2017 with autopilot, only to find out that it did not have autopilot. We could confirm from the pictures that it had c pillar cameras and Autopilot was an menu item on the control screen. He learned the hard way to ask for picture of the Autopilot sub menu - but what options are on the sub menu that would allow us to differentiate between 2.0 and 2.5? I am thinking Sentry mode, but not sure what the screen display differences are for AP2.0 vs AP2.5. Please let us know if you have any thoughts, or insights.

2) Battery replacement and degradation:
a) anyone know what is normal degradation for a 60 (software limited 75khw) battery. He likes the idea of a 60(75khw) since range is not an issue and the software buffer should allow faster charging to the limited 100%. We are theorizing that the buffer would have a lower risk of excessive max charging and prolong the battery life. Is this really true in real life?
b) We have seen cars advertised with partial battery replacement. Telsa has swapped out some cells under warranty. Is this common? I only recall reading about complete battery pack replacements and am not sure if this would be an item of concern.

3) question for Teslatap - love your site, it is a great resource. He found a 2017 60D(75khw) with AP2.0. Howerver, per your timeline 60D(75khw) only came with AP1. It seems possible that since there are 75D with AP2.0 at the end of 2016 that there could be 60D(Khw) with AP2.0

EVRider | 5 ottobre 2019

The most important distinction is between AP1 and AP2.x (HW2.x). Both HW2 and HW2.5 are capable of enhanced AP and FSD features, HW1 is not. HW2 went into production around October 2016, HW2.5 around August 2017. There are other differences between HW2 and HW2.5 that are unrelated to AP, for example, HW2 can’t record dashcam or Sentry Mode video.

Even if the car has AP hardware, that doesn’t mean AP has been enabled. You need the seller to confirm that. | 5 ottobre 2019

@EVfamilyGrins - My understanding is all cars manufactured after 1-Oct-2016 have AP2 or better. The best info I have is the 60D was discontinued in April 2017, so there should be some refreshed 60Ds with AP2.

On battery degradation, it's not much of an issue - maybe 5% in 100K miles on a non-software limited S/X. You should have less degradation on the 75 kW software limited 60, and you're safe to charge to 100% all the time - so both positives if you're considering a 2017 S60.

Mmaklin | 5 ottobre 2019

I own a 2017 model S 75D purchased new in Sept 2017. The technology is fantastic...except for 2 items:
1) the audio system is weak in all aspects in comparison to the rest of the car.
2) The automatic wipers, which have been perfected on nearly every ICE car, does not work properly, if at all, and is still classified, I believe under BETA mode. What gives with this. How does every other manufacterer accomplish this?
Are there any dates anticipated for a fix to these problems?

EVRider | 5 ottobre 2019

@Mmaklin: The quality of the audio system is subjective and other people seem happy with theirs, so it’s not clear there’s anything to “fix.” Do you have the premium audio system? That became standard at some point but I don’t remember when.

Regarding the wipers, older Teslas without HW2+ used a dedicated rain sensor, and the auto wipers worked pretty well. When HW2 was introduced in October 2016, Tesla dropped the rain sensor and started using the AP cameras to detect rain. Although they didn’t work as well as the old rain sensor for a long time, they seem to have improved with recent updates (even before V10). | 5 ottobre 2019

@Mmaklin - Also it may depend on what source you use. Highly compressed audio sources such as XM or Bluetooth will not be as good as using FLAC (a non-lossy format) on a USB drive. I'd also check your equalizer to be sure it's not set at some extremes. The further from zero, the more distortion is added (which is true of every equalizer). Most users cannot hear this small amount of distortion but it grows at the more extreme settings.

As EVRider points out, it may also be you have the standard audio. The UHFS is quite a bit better, especially at the low end. Still you can get an expensive aftermarket system that can futher enhance the sound.