14-50R install so many choices

14-50R install so many choices

Hey, I want to install a 14-50R outlet in the wall, inside my garage that's seetrocked, connect it to a UMC and cable organizer. I'm thinking right below the service panel which is on the right side of the garage wall facing outside, see picture. But I wonder what's that section on the lower left hand side of the service panel area, and if I could run my romex wire through there inside the wall to get to the breaker box? I'm assuming I don't have enough room in the wall to put the outlet directly behind the service panel, right? Ooooor install the outlet right above the service panel area which is 6.5' high, and since the UMC power brick and pig tail plug is I'm guessing 20" in length, I could install the Tesla cable organizer directly underneath the UMC power brick.

Alex_SD | 2 juni 2018

I’m not a certified electrician, so don’t do what I say but the 14-50 outlet, if mounted outside, needs to be enclosed in a weather proof enclosure. This enclosure will most likely be surface mounted. You’ll need to run a conduit. I’m not sure that it can be done with Romex.

Alex_SD | 2 juni 2018

50 Amp Outdoor Enclosed Panel with 14-50R Receptacle

billy. | 2 juni 2018

No, I'm installing in garage, next to service panel.

Alex_SD | 2 juni 2018

Oops, my bad. The picture looks like an exterior service panel...
The small box on the left must be your service feeder. It’s sealed by your electrical company. You’re not allowed to break the seal. You need to hook up inside the main panel.
Romex versus conduit+wire is up to you. I’m not very good with drywall, so I would go with surface mount and flex conduit. But that’s just me...

bryan.whitton | 2 juni 2018

You cannot go into the lower left box. The one below the meter is the main feed coming up from the ground. The one to the left is for getting power from the meter to the bus inside the breaker box as I recall.

As you are going in from the back side, cut the drywall above the breaker box in the stud space beside the service panel. Drill a hole in the stud above the box a right angle drill is very useful for this, and run your romex into the service panel and install the old job junction box. This will allow you to feed the romex into the box through a knockout. Don't forget to get the appropriate insert for the romex through the knockout. You will likely have to cut a hole in the drywall above the service panel to gain access to feed the romex.

Mount your 14-50R in the same rafter stud space below the junction box and feed the romex down to the box for the receptacle. Install the conductors and set the receptacle cover and the junction box cover. On the outside, remove the dead pan and locate where you r2 pole breaker is going. Land your ground and neutral conductors on their respective bus bars. I don't know the gauge conductors you are using but you may need to get adapters for large conductors to fit on the bus bars. Attach your L1 and L2 conductors and locate the breaker. Test your work with an appropriate volt meter. Test at the service panel and at the 14-50R. Remove the appropriate knockout plates for the new breaker and reinstall the dead pan. Mount your EVSE and plug it in. Patch the drywall as required.

Or hire an electrician and have it done right. :-)

billy. | 2 juni 2018

Thanks bryan.whitton, very detailed info!

So your saying cut out a rectangle right above the service panel in the drywall, drill a whole in the right stud, run the romex through whole in stud, attach the old work junction box on the other side of the same stud, so 2 holes total?

Do you think 6 gauge wire will fit in the Square D breaker box, bus bar?

Why not just mount the junction box directly above the beaker box so just have to cut 1 hole and no drilling?

Teslaguy | 2 juni 2018

Be aware that if the work is not done by a licensed contractor and their is an issue with it, insurance companies will not support any claim.

jefjes | 2 juni 2018

If you're certain you can do the work to code and are worried about an insurance claim later for whatever reason, you can still hire an inspector to inspect your work after you do it but if it doesn't pass, he will be required to report it as unsafe. Your call but I did my own and feel confident enough that I'm not worried about it but I've been doing such work for over 20 years before retiring. My breaker box is on the exterior wall of my garage similar to yours and I went thru a knockout in the back of the box to a surface mounted 4x4 box that I mounted to a 1/8 sheet of rbs over the drywall inside the garage. I put my first 14-50 directly in that box and came out the top of that box with 3/4" emt up the wall and across the ceiling down to another 14-50 on the other side. I used 6/3 Romex inside the conduit but I could have used less conduit if it had been run inside the drywall and over the ceiling but didn't want to climb around the rafters or cut my walls. Romex usually is not required to be in conduit as long as it's not exposed to possible damage so that normally means out of sight inside the wall or above the ceiling. Each has a 50amp circuit breaker in the breaker box of course. Like bryan said above if you're not sure, hire an electrician to be safe. Better than being sorry later.

Alex_SD | 3 juni 2018

I thought that Romex in conduit is not allowed by code...

jefjes | 3 juni 2018

@Alex_SD- As far as I know, it is as long as it doesn't exceed the fill rate. I'll try to check it but I did some preliminary research and it seemed to indicate it was fine.

jefjes | 3 juni 2018

National Electrical Code 2011
ARTICLE 334 Nonmetallic-Sheathed Cable: Types NM, NMC, and NMS
II. Installation

334.15 Exposed Work. In exposed work, except as provided in 300.11(A), cable shall be installed as specified in 334.15(A) through (C).

(B) Protection from Physical Damage. Cable shall be protected from physical damage where necessary by rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, electrical metallic tubing, Schedule 80 PVC conduit, Type RTRC marked with the suffix -XW, or other approved means. Where passing through a floor, the cable shall be enclosed in rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, electrical metallic tubing, Schedule 80 PVC conduit, Type RTRC marked with the suffix -XW, or other approved means extending at least 150 mm (6 in.) above the floor. [ROP 7-94] Type NMC cable installed in shallow chases or grooves in masonry, concrete, or adobe shall be protected in accordance with the requirements in 300.4(F) and covered with plaster, adobe, or similar finish.

There's also some notes in Chapter 9, dealing with how to figure for cables when calculating conduit fill.

Alex_SD | 3 juni 2018

I might be wrong. My application was outdoors. It looks like outdoors is not allowed but indoors is fine.

jefjes | 3 juni 2018

@Alex_SD- I saw your link to the weather tight 14-50 outdoor receptacle and think that that is good information. I may need one of those someday if my EVs exceed my garage I'm sure there are plenty of EV buyers that don't have or can't use their garage and having access to such information is great. Thanks for posting that!

billy. | 3 juni 2018

Does someone know how many inches is it from the top of the UMC plug portion to the bottom of it's power brick?

SUN 2 DRV | 3 juni 2018

Just install a Wall Connector, it includes a strain relief so no dangling UMC to worry about. Hardwired is better than plug and receptacle too. More current and better reliability.

bryan.whitton | 3 juni 2018

romex is not legal in EMT! Hard to pull and potential thermal/fire hazard.

Umm, I intended this as a good excuse to hire an electrician. :-)

If you are really willing to do a self install inside the drywall I would simply cut the drywall across the stud that sits next to the service panel. Drill the pathway through the stud with the extra access.

Either cut the same piece of drywall down the side of the service panel and run and tack the romex to the stud and into a new work box and use this for the 14-50R. If you cut the drywall large enough you can use a single new work box and simply run the romex out of the service panel into the hole in the stud and then down the stud to a new work box for the 14-50R. Better attachment for the 8 AWG being nailed to the stud.

Please remember that I can't see your wall and this is a generic guideline. YMMV. Also, there may be a fire block in between the studs next to the service panel and you may have to drill through that as well.

Good luck! I will stay tuned for updates if you want. I do work during the week though.

Where are you located? Generally, I don't need an address.

A common mistake with self installers is to try and do the work with little access because they don't want to cut the drywall. The drywall is easy to replace, cut ir and give yourself room to work. The job won't take as long and the quality of the job is better. A single large patch is easier to repair as well.

In general I would rather cut a large piece of drywall than two small ones. Easier to patch and do your work. Easiest to cut midway through the adjacent stud and just take the new peace to the stud.

billy. | 3 juni 2018

I'm in Solano County CA, I'll post a picture once I add the outlet.