tire pressure monitor indicator says it is not working

tire pressure monitor indicator says it is not working

is there a way to solve this without paying tesla $900

PrescottRichard | January 16, 2020

Which year is your car? I had this same issue on a 2013 P85 and had to upgrade too.

PrescottRichard | January 16, 2020

Try typing this into your browser addy space to search the forum

site: TPMS

Bighorn | January 16, 2020

I thought I responded to this question (and OP) a couple days ago with my thoughts and upgrade data.

eggbert747 | January 16, 2020

I feel a bit guilty but when my older 2014 tire sensor alert keep appearing, I was convinced I wasn't paying $1200 to upgrade to the newer system that showed PSI. I rather enjoy checking my own tire pressure. So sure enough Tesla service said we need to upgrade you to the newer system I said no, just fix the system so the alert doesn't keep popping up. Service fixed it. They installed the newer system at NC. I don't think they were able to repair the older system. Actually I didn't really care what system, just wanted the stop the flashing alarm on the display about Tire Pressure Alert for no reason.

B_flat | January 17, 2020

Just had that problem with my 2013 S. It was just one sensor that went bad and the bill was under $200.

Bighorn | January 17, 2020

Tire sensor batteries last around this long and they require new sensors when that happens. About $50 a corner. Changing out the system cost me about $500, half of which was labor. Not sure where $1200 comes from.

susancejka | January 17, 2020

mine is a 2013 P85. this is helpful. thank you

mabutolwilson | January 17, 2020


Bighorn | January 17, 2020

Same—2013 P85+. TPMS receiver failure eventually practically incapacitated all my steering stalk functions, including the gear shift, and had to limp ii 500 miles to service to avoid “thousands” in flat bed fees. They originally fixed it with the old Baolong unit and charged me ~$500 and I objected to not getting the newer Conti unit with individual readouts. The new unit requires different sensors, but the old sensors would have needed replacing soon anyway, so it was a wash. Having individual readouts alone is worth the hassle.

PrescottRichard | January 17, 2020

For my (now sold) 13 P85 I think I was quoted $700 in Scottsdale AZ last year to switch it to Conti. I even found the new sensors on ebay for less than what Tesla was gonna charge me in an effort to minimize the costs.

In case you wind up going that way- I got a quote from Tesla which had the part numbers on it and searched ebay for that part number to find a biz in Texas that had sensors.

BH- I had almost the same thing happen, still could shift into gear but got alerts one after the other of all my systems being non-functional. Like Ironman falling out of the sky after icing up. Well, maybe not so much. Power steering, braking, cruise, traction control, etc. Crazy that these things were connected somehow!?!

Bighorn | January 17, 2020




$ 0.10



VALVE STEM (soft cap) (1034602-00-C)

4 x 70.00 $280.00

DUAL LOCK 25MM X 20MM (1008246-00-B)

2 x 3.92 $7.84

Total Parts $393.97

Labor was 206.25, so total cost was $600, not 500. Not something I perseverated on obviously.

The symptoms were bizarre. I had a turning light constantly flashing and my reverse camera lines were wonky in addition to wondering whether I could get it into gear after a charge. Anything remotely related to the steering column didn't work properly. Definitely a white knuckle drive. I dropped it off when I picked up my new Model 3, so that was a distractor.

PrescottRichard | January 17, 2020

BH- That’s right, one of the ‘puddle’ lights was flashing too. I didn’t notice until driving home in the dark. Forgot about that. Makes me wonder how all that is connected in the column, seems like a bad idea! I think when I posted my symptoms here you mentioned the TPMS and I was perplexed, now I’m a believer :)

So the parts that I found for less $ are-

VALVE STEM (soft cap) (1034602-00-C)

Didn’t save a ton, but IIRC it was at least half. Turns out my car (I bought it used) had a 4yr service agreement and that saved me as well.

DBrohm | January 21, 2020

It might not be your sensor. This is my experience:

I have a '13 P85+ and after the update the included tire settings, I was getting pressure warnings. What's happened is Tesla has CHANGED the tire ratings on the vehicle. If you're following the sticker guide on your car's frame, you will get the warning because the car is expecting a higher pressure -- you just don't know it and it was never communicated to owners. Your service center should give you guidance on the updated, recommended pressures, and they will put a NEW sticker on your car.

mikefa | January 21, 2020

Save your money for the new Tesla Cybertruck.

The Tire Pressure Monitor was giving false alerts on my 2013 Model S ever since i got my car. Tesla replaced them completely while it was still under warranty. When the problem persisted after warranty expired, they recommended i upgrade to the newer system for about $1,100.

i took a chance on purchasing a TPM system based on my friend's suggestion who bought one on Amazon for $69.00 that he uses on his older BMW and so far it works pretty well. I purchased the 3-year Assurion extended warranty for $11.46 just in case the China-made product expires after the manufacturer's warranty.

Tymate TPMS Solar Power Charge - 4 External Sensor (0-6.0 BAR) Wireless Tire Pressure Monitoring System

someguyinnj | January 22, 2020

What is the error message you are seeing? I am getting the following;

"Tire pressure monitoring system fault
Sensors unable to measure tire pressure"

with an error code of MCU_w012_TPMS

Anyone seen this before?

someguyinnj | January 22, 2020

oh, and this is in a 2018 Model S

susancejka | January 27, 2020

thank you. do you know what the current recommendations are for tire pressure? i bought a pressure gauge and compressed air. plan to ignore them and just test it and fill myself.
they are a ripoff

Bighorn | January 27, 2020

Or a life saver.

See 49 USC 30122(b) if you think you’ll get any professional assistance to circumvent.

Bighorn | January 27, 2020

Recommended tire pressures as always are on the door jamb

PrescottRichard | January 27, 2020

Susancejka - look on the sticker inside the driver’s door, on the frame. It has your vin, date of manufacture, etc.

Keep in mind the numbers there are for whichever wheel & tire set you car was delivered with so if you changed wheels (went from 19” to 21” for example) that’s not the right numbers.

Typically for 19” wheels 45psi is what you’re supposed to be at maximum when cold, so first thing in the morning after your car hasn’t been driven. It will go up as you drive. That’s a stiffer, bumpier ride than some prefer so some people keep it closer to 40.

The new system is much nicer, but I can understand not wanting to pay for it. As the weather heats up and cools off your numbers will also go up and down (even with nitrogen filled tires) so keep an eye on pressure as the weather changes.

Someguyinnj- is that error code on your screen? I don’t remember seeing that on my 2013 when it had issues but that’s long enough ago I can’t research it. Your car is newer enough than the 2013 I had that you have a different system than I did!