Does anyone know if the model 3 has a cut off switch or fuse box, I purchased a salvage Tesla model 3 but it wont start. Please help.
Model 3 power
to my knowledge the Model 3 has some sort of circuit breakers. no actual fuses. They detect a short, etc, and will open. When the circuit returns to normal they will auto-reset to close and allow current again. located under the frunk plastic cover where the 12 volt battery lives (just below the base of the windshield)
Don't quote me, just some tidbits I've read about...and experienced once when wiring my trailer lights.
short version is I lost right side blinker and brake light. resolved itself overnight with no intvervention by me. other than unhooking the problem trailer lights! Have not re-visited this project yet and I think my old trailer wiring and lights may be too much for the Model 3. May need LED lights. not sure.
Finman is right - no accessible fuses, uses a solid state technique. There are a few fuses inside the battery pack, but these are very hard to get to and unlikely to be bad.
I'd first check the 12v, which is likely dead. Jump the 12v and see what happens. Everything may come to life at that point. The main pack cannot connect if the 12v is dead as a safety system. I hope you have the plastic "credit-card" style key, as you'll need it to unlock the car.
Good luck with your project - sounds like fun.
Other people so far are correct. Most likely, the 12V battery is dead. It is needed to connect the main battery pack to the rest of the car and get everything started. The 12V battery is located under a panel that pulls off without any tools (just grab and pull) between the hinges for the frunk. You can jump it the same way you would jump any other car.
First you'll need to get into the frunk. To do that, open the small little circle on the front bumper where the tow hook would attach (it swivels and comes out). The black wire will be attached to the back side of that circle and, at least in my car, the red wire is attached to the inside of the front bumper just to the right of that hole. You may need to reach in and to the right to grab it and pull it out. Just connect a regular 12V battery to those cables and the frunk will pop open, pull that panel discussed previously off and jump the 12V battery like you would any other car. While your Model 3 is connected to another 12V battery, your Model 3 will be able to charge. Plug it in, start charging. Once its charge up a bit, you can disconnect the battery you used to jump the car and let the Tesla take care of itself.
No fuse box.
No user access to a switch.
If the Pyro fuses are blown the it will be dead.
If you don't know about Pyro fuses be aware of them.
Now on to the good stuff. Why was it salvaged? Wreck, Flood, Fire, etc.
Is there a Haynes or Chiltons repair manual available for the diy mechanic? In my younger days a Haynes repair manual helped me immensely when I purchased a used 1974 Fiat 128 that had compression in 3 of 4 cylinders.
Those were the days.
I hope the OP’s M3 project car is more reliable than my old Fiat.
Tesla has just released service documentation via subscription.
I was just thinking about carrying my 12v DC - 110v AC "cigarette lighter" power adaptor in my Model 3 with me, in case I need to plug in my laptop or something similar. I wonder - if this adaptor overloads the lighter circuit, what will happen? It'll fail, then automagically reset itself later?
So what happened in the end?
@stevenmichelsen - Yep, once the overload goes away, it auto-resets. Very cool.
So. I'm charging my phone via the 12v socket using a USB-C to USB-C adapter for fast charging. Been working fine. Today the 12v socket in the M3 stopped working. I verified this by moving the 12v adapter over to the X & everything works great.
Sooooo.....do I just wait for this 12v socket in the M3 to reset itself?
Although I can't find a reference to it in the December version of the Model 3 manual, there's an emergency "pull this out" tag in the frunk. They mentioned this to me when I picked up the car back in December. I believe it cuts off all power from the main batteries and it's intended to be used after a significant accident to help "safe" the vehicle. Open the frunk, and you should see it on the right back corner (just to the right of the windshield washer fluid)... It's a little orange tag (about 4 inches by 2 inches or so) with a fireman's helmet on it and the word Tesla. I believe if that's been pulled (as part of the salvage recovery, for example?), that will need to be dealt with. The delivery guy said "yeah, don't pull that out."
That tag is for the firefighters to CUT the power cables to the battery.
Please don't pull the tag off - it's there for a purpose.
So my 12v outlet still doesn't work. Any ideas? I even rebooted the car.
Made a service appointment too.
Tesla's don't "start" also if it's salvage Tesla could have disabled the car
Let the M3 sit without driving it for 36 hours.
My 12v outlet decided to start working again.
Let the car sit for 36 hours is the solution? Hahah
I guess it does reset itself --- eventually.
My recent experience with restoring power to the 12 volt Power Socket in our Model 3's console:
Regarding the 12V power outlet not working due to overcurrent, I'm not exactly sure how the reset works on the Model 3, but I have some previous work with overcurrent disconnects. The retry interval typically depends on the time that the fault persists. Short detected, shutdown and wait 1 second and retry. Still there, increase to 2 second, 4 seconds, 8 seconds, .. 10 minutes, .. 10 hours. Power of 2 is typical as it is easy to implement. Could be why they don't have an exact answer. So if your prior device was misbehaving for awhile, the shutdown may take longer to recover from.
One thing that may accelerate recovery (if it happens again) is to disconnect the 12V battery. Do the service power down procedure you mentioned on your blog post, but have the frunk open and remove the negative battery lead after the fans and everything shuts off. That's the most certain hard reset procedure - may help.